I’ve done dozens of events around the world on the book tour for The Camino Way where I have met people interested in walking the Camino de Santiago. I always get the same 20 or so questions. Here are those questions and my responses.
Is the Camino open now with COVID?
According to the Oficina del Peregrino in Santiago de Compostela, there are some pilgrims arriving to get a compostela for walking at least the last 100 kilometers of the Camino. For me, however, I am not recommending people go this year (2021) for a few reasons. First, there are border closures that change frequently between countries and even within Spain. You have to check official government resources to understand what applies to your plans. Second, many of the places to stay and restaurants along the trail may not be open or may be figuring out how to operate in a COVID world. Third, the Camino survived the Black Plague in the 1300s – it will still be there long after COVID.
What is the best time of year to go?
I tell people to avoid the busiest month of August. It is a busy time in general to vacation in Europe and the Camino is the same. There will be a competition for beds in the hostels and for the private rooms in the hotels, etc. along the Camino that you can reserve. July is the second busiest month and June is the third busiest month. I have walked in April, June, and July and enjoyed those experiences. I would recommend October and May too. I would avoid walking in the dead of winter (December, January, February) because some of the hostels will be closed for the season, the weather can be cold up north, and it can be a lonely experience with few other pilgrims on the trail.
Which is the best path to walk?
The Camino de Santiago is a network of trails that all end in the same place – Santiago de Compostela in the northwest corner of Spain. The answer depends on what you want. If you want to meet many other pilgrims from all over the world, the French Way is the most popular. The Portuguese Way is the second most popular. The English Way is short and less busy. The Camino Finistera is nice too. I have not walked the Camino Norte yet, but I hear that it is more scenic and difficult but nice. My favorite parts of all the Caminos I have walked have been the first two weeks from St Jean Pied de Port to Burgos on the Camino Frances.
Can you ride a bicycle?
About 5 percent of people finished the Camino on a bicycle in 2019. Bicycle riders have to bicycle 200 kilometers to get a Compostela. I considered riding a bike my first time but I am glad I decided to walk instead. I think walkers have a much more social experience.
How physically difficult is the trail?
Walking 25 kilometers per day is not easy but you do not have to be an athlete to do it. About 20 percent of people who completed the trail in 2019 were over age 60. If you can walk one kilometer, you can probably walk 10 kilometers if you work at it. If you can walk 10 kilometers, you can probably walk 25 kilometers if you work at it. If you can walk 25 kilometers one day, you can walk 25 kilometers day after day if you work at it. You have all day to do it. The hardest day I have had is walking over the Pyrenes Mountains on the first day from St Jean Pied de Port to Roncesvalles. My phone told me it counted 49,000 steps and 380 floors climbed that day. Some people skip that day and start in Roncesvalles or Pamplona. Some people take that day in two parts by stopping at the one hostel midway in Orisson.
Do people walk the Camino alone?
Yes, many people walk the Camino alone. The trail is well marked, so it is easy to follow without a guide. It is easy to make friends with other pilgrims along the way. I always feel safe walking on the Camino. You have to be smart, of course. I watch for pickpockets in the cities. I feel most safe when I am walking a trail where I know other pilgrims are not far behind me. Pilgrims help each other. People who live along the trail are generally supportive too. I have seen many women walking the Camino alone on the French Way.
Do you have to take a tent?
No, at least on the trails I have been on. The trail is so old there are villages all along with hostels, Airbnb, hotels, and inns. The hostels for pilgrims are often 10-25 Euros a night.
Do you have to stay in hostels?
People share rooms and bathrooms in the hostels (called albergues in Spain). Some pilgrims love that because it makes it easy to meet other pilgrims. Some people do not want to share a bedroom or bathroom. Maybe they want privacy. Maybe the want to avoid the people who snore. There are usually private rooms along the Camino in hotels and inns. They are more expensive.
Do you have to take a month off to walk the Camino?
No, many people walk the Camino one or two weeks at a time. Many start 100 kilometers from Santiago so they qualify for the Compostela. Walking the whole Camino Frances over 32 days is a special experience that I recommend if you do have the time.
What is the most important equipment to have?
Good shoes and socks are most important. I use hiking shoes with support for my ankles. Some people walk in running shoes. I wear lightweight pants and shirts that are easy to wash and dry. I use a pole. A good hat and sunscreen are important. A good backpack with is important. There are services that will carry your baggage for you if you do not want to use a backpack.
Does the Camino go over roads the whole time?
I’ve read a blog that says the Camino is almost entirely on busy roadways. I’ve walked the Camino five times on several paths (French Way, English Way, Portuguese Way, Finestera Way) and I have not had that experience. When the Camino does go along roadways, they are usually lightly traveled country roads where you are as likely to see a tractor as a car. I remember one day on week 2 of the French Way that was along a busy highway that was not great. I remember stretches during the long meseta part of the French Way being near a highway but not being terrible.
How much does it cost to walk the Camino?
On a per day basis, the Camino can be relatively inexpensive compared to other vacations. Most of the Camino is spent in rural parts of Spain (and Portugal) that are low cost to start with. There are low cost hostels (called albergues) available to Camino pilgrims along the trails. They offer a bunk bed in a room shared with other pilgrims and community bathroom and shower facilities. The prices can be maybe 5-15/25 euros per night for a bed. (The need for social distancing due to COVID will likely reduce the number of beds available with the albergues, so prices may change going forward.) Restaurants often have cheap menus meals for pilgrims too, often 10-20 euros for a dinner, including a bottle of wine.
Do I need to bring maps or a guidebook?
The trails are typically well marked with signposts and arrows, so detailed hiking maps are generally not required, at least on the more popular trails. Guidebooks can be helpful to describe the route, the accommodation options, and the history and sights along the trail, but are not required. The most popular guidebook I have seen in English is the excellent series by John Brierley, who walks and updates his books regularly. There are also many smartphone apps for the Camino that can also provide useful information without carrying extra weight in the form of paper.
What is a pilgrim passport / credential and how do I get one?
The pilgrim credential (often called a pilgrim passport) is the brochure that pilgrims carry for two reasons. First, it identifies them as Camino pilgrims (peregrinos) which qualifies them to stay in the hostels along the way that are only open to pilgrims. Second, it is where pilgrims collect stamps each day (or two per day on last 100 km) to prove that they walked the trail. This is what the Oficina del Peregrino (Pilgrim’s Office) checks to see if you qualify to get the Compostela certificate for completing the Camino. You can pick up a copy of a passport along the Camino. You can also pre-order from the Camino non-profit organization in your country.